I like chocolate. I like it a lot. This page has my notes on chocolate and where to get it.
Of the domestic artisan makers, in my opinion, Michel Cluizel, Recchuiti, and Dolfin are easily the best. Of the international makers, Valrhona, Venchi, Amadei, Baratti & Milano, and Galler are all great. You can't go wrong with any of them. For white chocolate, Green & Black's is my favorite by far, but El Rey and Lindt are also quite good.
Exotics and flavored chocolates are more hit and miss, but there are still many worth trying. Dolfin and Vosges bars tend to be good across the board. Zotter has a ton of flavors; most are very weird, many are good, and some are great. On the other hand, I'm not a fan of Dagoba, NewTree, or Charles, among others. I also stay away from ginger, regardless of maker. I haven't yet found a ginger chocolate I'd recommend.
Mallorca/Cuba 70%. This chocolate is from Spain, specifically the mysterious and adventurous (ahem) Madrid airport. A friend and coworker picked it up while he was on vacation. It's very, very smooth and rich. It tastes both lighter and darker than its 70%, which is odd. It's great, though. I just wish I could find it online so I could order more!
Red October "Slava" and Russky Shokolad "Loristi" These were the first Russian chocolates I've tried, and they were interesting, to say the least. The chocolates themselves weren't great - I'd estimate the cacao solid content was around 50%, and they had strange, chemical aftertastes. They weren't unpleasant, but they're no competition for the better chocolates here. However, the textures were striking. They're soft, not hard and shiny and solid like good darks, and they had air bubbles shot through them. This was subtle in the Loristi and pronounced in the Slava. It reminded me of puffed rice chocolates like Nestlé Crunch, but without the puffed rice. Very odd.
Valrhona 71% This Valrhona is incredibly strong. It has a great texture - incredibly dense, solid, and matte. I feel kind of silly saying it, and I don't know why, but it makes me think of the jungle; huge power lying just underneath the surface, barely contained. More down to earth, it reminds me of some of the better South American chocolates, even though Valrhona is French. Who knows. The bottom line is, it's damn good.
Michel Cluizel 72% This chocolate was completely forgettable. Granted, I didn't exactly eat it in the most conducive of tasting environments. (I was outside an airport, waiting for a cab. :P) Still, there was absolutely nothing memorable about this chocolate. Considering the competition on this page, it wasn't bad at all, which is saying something. It just wasn't especially good either.
Michel Cluizel "Maralumi" 1er Cru 64% This one was significantly better than the standard 72%. It was very smooth, but still delivered the cacao you expect. So, it was good, but it still wasn't quite great...even considering the "1er Cru" label, this one hailing from New Zealand. There's a lot of buzz around Cluizel chocolates, but for me, they haven't lived up to the hype yet.
Michel Cluizel "Concepcion" 1er Cru 66% OK, I take it back. I'd heard so much fawning over the Michel Cluizel 1er de Cru lines, I had to try another. This one definitely lived up to the hype. It's from Caracas, and reminds me more than a little of the Valrhona base 71%. It's very strong, almost raw. The cacao hits you like a freight train in both the initial and aftertaste. It's a little smoky, but just barely. The strength of the blend of cacao butter and solids is the star of this chocolate. Cluizel, I have to give it to you; this 1er Cru made me a convert.
Zotter Kürbistrüffel This is an experience. The label says "milk chocolate filled with pumpkinseed cream," but that only begins to describe it. For a 44%, the chocolate is remarkably substantial, almost smoky. The pumpkinseed cream is sea green, rough, and about the same texture as caviar (at least, I'd guess :P). It tastes phenomenal, even if only vaguely like pumpkin. The combination is unique, and very very good.
Dolfin 88% This was the first truly premium chocolate I tasted. I can't hope to describe it objectively, so I won't try. I'll just say that this is the quality benchmark for every measure of chocolate I know - texture, finish, cacao solids, balance, taste, etc. I can't say for sure whether this is better or worse than, say, the Recchiuti, or any other couture chocolates. All I can say is that, for me, this is the gold standard.
Dolfin Masala (milk) Dolfin's mixed chocolates are outstanding, without exception, and this is no different. This is a superb chocolate, one of my favorite non-darks on the list. It's very smooth, light, and creamy. The masala gives it the perfect kick, and it's matched to the chocolate very well. I also like that it has just a few seeds for a crunchy texture, but isn't overdone.
Dolfin Rose Peppercorn (semisweet) This chocolate is a lot of fun. The peppercorn gives it a decidedly sharp taste, but doesn't overpower the rose scent. It makes a great Valentine's Day gift. :P It's not as smooth as other Dolfins, and doesn't have the same premium feel, but still makes for a unique experience.
Dolfin Earl Grey (bittersweet) For a flavored chocolate, this is surprisingly balanced and subtle. The Earl Grey combination is unique, and definitely surprised me the first time I heard about it. Dolfin is known for well-made yet unusual combinations like this, though, and they pulled this one off well.
Dolfin Ceylan (milk) I tend not to eat milk chocolate often, but for Dolfin, I'll make an exception. This chocolate is very similar to the Masala, especially the milk chocolate base and the texture of the raw, unrefined spices. This one has cinnamon from Ceylan, like the Red Fire Bar. However, this bar is much smoother and simpler. It can't compete with the sheer quality of the craftsman bittersweets, including Dolfin's own 88%. However, for what it is, it's very enjoyable.
El Rey Icoa (white) I haven't tried many different white chocolates, but if they're all like this one, I'll have to try more! The Icoa is incredibly smooth, thick white chocolate. It feels very heavy, and leaves a distinct "melting" feeling in your mouth. It almost has a subtle vanilla flavor, but that might be typical of all whites. Icoa describes its source as "Venezuelan single bean," which I can't confirm or deny, but I definitely like it!
Recchiutti 85% This is a phenomenal dark. It's smooth, but also very strong and robust. If it was a wine, and I was a snooty wine person, I might describe it as earthy and oak-y. It's so full and rich, even I can't handle more than a few squares at once. Along with the Dolfin 88%, one of my favorite bittersweets, this is at the top of my list.
Recchiutti Hazelnut Praline This one is a little different. It's not a pure chocolate bar, and it's not flavored. It's a layer of Recchiuti 70% around a praline hazelnut wafer. It's mind-numbingly sweet, but if you can stand the sugar, and you like pralines at all, it's definitely worth trying.
Baratti Cioccolato Bianco (white) Baratti & Milano is one of the oldest, most established chocolatiers in Italy, based in the Torino region. Their bittersweet chocolates are very dense and rich, but this white is almost the opposite. It's extremely creamy and smooth, likely because they use whole, non-pasteurized milk. It's not a surprisingly high quality white, but it's so edible that you can eat half a bar before you realize you've eaten a single square.
Amedei Porcelana 70% This chocolate inspired me, with tongue firmly in cheek, to coin Barrett's Rule: A chocolate's quality may be directly related to the snootiness of its label. That is, a chocolate with a a Michelangelo-style fresco on the package is probably better than one with a still-life oil painting, which is probably better than one with plain writing and a logo. Of course, this doesn't always hold, since humble labels can definitely hide high-quality chocolates. But I have yet to be disappointed by a snooty-looking label, and this is no exception.
Venchi 75% Ths is easily one of the best pure darks in the list. Note the incredibly snooty wrapper; it's gilded in gold, and has a Michelangelo-like fresco painting. So, due to Barrett's Law, you don't need me to tell you that it's good. :P
Perugina Dark is Nestle Europe's high-end commodity chocolate. Commodity chocolate in Europe easily passes for premium here in the states, though, and Perugina is no substitue. Perugina may not be overly complex, but it's very rich, smooth, and accessible. I'm a fan.
Lindt Surfin Silver (semisweet) This is very smoky and sharp. It's not extremely bitter, per se, but it almost tastes like charcoal or ash. It overpowers the standard sweet and bittersweet cacao aftertastes. The best way I can describe the taste is like a red wine that's been left open and has oxidized. I'm not a fan.
Lindt Excellence 85% This is an ok chocolate, but not outstanding. It's not necessarily smooth - it's very strong, almost tangy, too chalky, and otherwise harsh in ways I can't hope to identify. It's kind of like a very dry wine or sake.
Lindt Excellence White This is a very solid white. Smooth, simple, great texture, and easy to eat way too much of. :P Not necessarily a premium white, but then again, there aren't many of those, Green and Black's not withstanding. I'm a fan of this one.
Vosges Red Fire 55% This one is out there. It's a a combination of Mexican, ancho, and chipotle chili powder with Ceylan cinnamon in a semisweet chocolate. In case you were wondering, it's also plenty hot - great if you're looking for an adventure! Unfortunately, the spices somewhat drown out the chocolate. Regardless, this is definitely one to experience, even if you don't end up eating it regularly.
Vosges Gianduja 30% This is an amazing chocolate. It's intensely sweet, almost saturated with sugar. It's a Belgian milk chocolate, but the overpowering flavors of praline pecan and hazelnut hit you well before the chocolate does. Also, since it's such a light chocolate, the texture is radically different from most of the others on this page - it melts at the slightest touch. If you like pralines and you can take the sugar, this is not to be missed.
NewTree "Vigor" 73% NewTree is a floaty, new-age chocolatier - similar to Dagoba, if not quite so extreme. They push the health benefits of their chocolates, both from the cacao content (which, frankly, comes in all premium chocolates), and from the fruit and herb extracts in their flavored chocolates. This bar is my favorite NewTree. It's their standard 73% base with coffee and guarana. The base is ok, but the texture is gritty, rough, and surprisingly powerful. It reminds me of the good parts of chocolate-covered espresso beans, without the waxiness, low quality chocolate, or sharp bean shards. It's a great flavored bar for anyone who claims they don't like flavored chocolates.
NewTree "Tranquility" As opposed to "Vigor", this NewTree is almost unpalatable. It's a loose milk chocolate base, with extract of lavender and lime flowers. The milk is ok, but the lavender and lime flowers totally overpower it. They're biting and unbalanced, and the chocolate is lost entirely in the aftertaste.
NewTree "Pleasure" 73% This is NewTree's standard 73% base, without any flavoring. It's decent, but fairly forgettable. I can't really say much at all about it one way or the other.
Chocovic Guaranda 71% Chocovic, based in Spain, is known for importing cacao beans from exotic locations to make its chocolates. The Guaranda uses beans from the Guayas river in Ecuador, one of the first countries to cultivate forastero cacao beans. This chocolate is very smooth and round, almost rolling off your tongue. It doesn't have the impact of a bittersweet, and tastes even lighter than its 71% would indicate, but it's still well worth trying.
Green and Black's White Green and Black's is known for using strictly organic ingredients from environmentally friendly suppliers. This white chocolate is extremely coarse and earthy, with bits of nuts and vanilla bean. It's reminiscent of high-quality vanilla bean ice cream; not creamy, but very, very good. Probably one of the best whites I've tried.
Dagoba "New Moon" 74% Green and Black's may be high-minded about chocolate, but Dagoba is just plain hippie. They use words like alchemy, temple, mystery, and integrity to describe what's basically milk, cocoa, and sugar. To be fair, I'm just saying all this because I don't remember much about the chocolate at all. It wasn't bad, but I guess it wasn't particularly good either. Maybe their others are more memorable. :P
Dagoba "Chai" 37% Dagoba describes this as "forest grown organic milk chocolate infused with crystallized ginger and chai essence." It does taste like chai, but the ginger is the key ingredient. It way overpowers the rest of the tastes, including even the chocolate and chai. There's just too much of it. You'll probably put this one down the first time you bite into a chunk of pure crystallized ginger. It's good, but this is way over the recommended dosage.
Galler Noir 85% This is a solid, somoth, very easy-to-eat bittersweet. It's dense and substantial, and it doesn't melt quickly. It's good enough that I'd want to try more Galler chocolates.
Scharffen Berger 70% This is a solid, standard dark chocolate. Good for a quick fix. It's nice to snack on, but it's not especially memorable.
Scharffen Berger 82% This is a funny one. It's a unique flavor, but has an aftertaste that is somewhat unpleasant. It's smooth, not too bitter, but not at all sweet. It's one of those things I'd describe as "interesting..." - I want to be polite, but I just don't care for it very much, and can't recommend it. It's not as easy to eat as the 70%, and doesn't wow you like a Recchiuti or Dolfin dark. Then again, maybe this is what real unrefined cacao tastes like. If you have a friend who really likes cacao, see what they think of this!
Maxim's de Paris Maxim's is a big, multinational luxury brand that hails from Paris. They're not a chocolate maker as much as a fine food dealer that includes chocolate in their lineup. Their chocolate is well done - it's light, has good texture, and even has bits of cocoa bean embedded in it. Not really a premium chocolate, but I definitely wouldn't turn it down. :P
Hachez Cocoa D'Arriba 77% Hachez isn't quite a premium chocolate, but it's a lot of fun. It's very bright and tangy, almost overpowering. There are subtle overtones of fruit and citrus. There's much more straight sugar and sweetness than cacao in the aftertaste, though. It's good for a quick fix, if not a truly high quality chocolate.
Fauchon "Intense" 77% Fauchon is a boutique luxury goods label based in Paris. They're not known as a chocolatier, and their chocolate reflects that. It's somewhat shallow and rough. It's too waxy for me, and the cacao is underrepresented in the aftertaste. I've included them here for completion, but you're much better off with a real chocolatier.
Pernigotti "Black" God help me, I actually liked this little piece of candy. It comes in self-serve, prepackaged round tablets. It's barely even semisweet, probably less then 50%, and the emulsifiers and sugar come through louder than the cacao. Taken as candy, not premium chocolate, though, it's not bad at all. It reminds me of the "25 days of Christmas" chocolate calendars you'd get as a kid - no competition for the better chocolates here, but still lots of fun.
Here are a few places in San Francisco, the greater Bay Area, and online that have good chocolate selections:
Fog City News specializes in newspapers, magazines, and chocolate from all over the world...and nothing else. Their chocolate selection is phenomenal. They carry all of the makers on this page, with the notable exception of Recchiuti. The staff is also very knowledgeable and always has great recommendations.
Chocolate Covered has a storefront in the charming, chic 24th Street business district in Noe Valley. It's small and understated, but inside you'll find one of the most comprehensive chocolate selections in the area. It specializes in European and South American chocolates, and the owner is on a first-name basis with many of the makers on this page. He's extremely knowledgeable, and his recommendations are impeccable. As an unexpected treat, he's also a lunchbox and tin afficionado, and offers custom-made tins packed with chocolate assortments.
Cocoa Bella, on Union in SF, sounds promising. It looks like they focus more on truffles than solid chocolate bars, but they still have a decent selection, including an Italian maker I've never tried, Maglio. If you're reading this, nag me to go check it out!
Oakville Grocery is actually a full-featured gourmet grocery, but I've only really used them for their chocolates, and a few other fun things to splurge on like pesto, chilis, and olive oil. They have a big selection, but consisting mostly of domestics and big-name importeds. The staff doesn't really specialize in chocolate, but they're extremely friendly and helpful.
Recchiuti Confections in the Ferry Building Marketplace is lots of fun, not to mention the only place near me where I can get Recchiuti chocolate. (The others in San Francisco are Nieman Marcus and Bi-Rite Market. Huh?) The Ferry Building marketplace is open on Saturdays and occasionally other weekdays, and it's a lot of fun.
Confetti Le Chocolatier is ostensibly a cafe, but they have a great selection of imported chocolates too. It's a little eclipsed by their other chocolate confections, but the staff is very cool, and they'll hand-pack boxes with whatever combination of Godiva, Neuhaus, Dolfin, etc. you can dream up.
Rococoa Faerie Queen pays just as much attention to the experience as to the chocolate. It's located in the Castro, which is definitely visible in the outside environment and the storefront. However, the actual chocolate selection leaves something to be desired. They have great truffles, including more than a few homemade ones, but almost no straight bar chocolate. Furthermore, most of the truffles are Leonidas, with few other kinds. Finally, the interior of the store is stiflingly small. Maybe five people can fit inside total. The Castro is fun, but don't go on Rococoa's account.
Coupa Café is one of my regular hangouts. They're a five minute walk from my apartment, and they offer spectacular spicy hot chocolate and free wireless. They also have good food and great desserts, including a line of hand-made truffles. More importantly, though, they're the area's only Chuao importer, and they also carry makers like El Rey and Michel Cluizel. Having all this within walking distance is very, very dangerous. :P
AG Ferrari Foods is an upmarket, boutique Italian grocery store chain. Their chocolate selection is far from comprehensive, but so far, AG Ferrari is the only place I've found that carries a few specific Italian makers - Barrati & Milano, Guido Gobino, and Laboratorio Artigianale del Giandujotto. True, you can buy them on the internet, but for something as sensual and personal as chocolate, unless you've tried them before, that doesn't really work. Still...
Amazon is rapidly becoming the Wal-Mart of the Internet. I was pleasantly surprised when I won an Amazon gift certificate recently...but I couldn't think of anything I wanted, so I ended up browsing their chocolate selection. They provide a single storefront for a number of smaller sellers across the world. The selection varies by season, and favors truffles, but you can still find a number of the chocolates listed here. I've only found a few stores in the entire Bay Area that have decent selections - Fog City, Oakville, and Chocolate Covered - so Amazon is a welcome addition. Gotta love teh intarweb!
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Sun 14 May 2006