Last night, Clayton and I had dinner at Spencer on the Go, the takeout arm of French restaurant Chez Spencer, in San Francisco.

Unlike most restaurants, you don’t pick up Spencer’s takeout at the host’s podium, or the register, or even at a side door or facade. Spencer on the Go serves out of a taco truck!

Granted, it’s a little classier than your average taco truck. The awning features potted wheatgrass, plates of fresh baked madeleines and cookies, and a charming strand of christmas lights.

Still, it’s simple and straightforward, and it lets the real star, the food, shine through. The menu features French standbys like escargot, ratatouille, foie gras, lamb stew, and even frog legs.

We tried a number of different dishes, and the pedigree was undoubtedly French – heavy, buttery, and rich – and fit for foodies, most of whom discovered it a long time ago. More important than any of that, though, it was really, really good.

There isn’t much seating in the empty lot on 7th and Folsom, but no matter. City Beer and Terroir, the wine bar we ended up going to, both welcome Spencer’s signature unmarked brown boxes.

It may not have been a conventional dinner, but it was a hell of a lot of fun, and a great break from the standard restaurant thing. I can’t wait to go again.